This weekend a few of us were supposed to return to the West Rim Trail and do a tribute trip to a great friend that we lost last year, right after our West Rim trip last June. He talked the whole time about his trip the following week to Peru. He was so excited. He had an altitude induced heart attack as he was almost to the summit of Rainbow Mountain, 14,189 ft in elevation. He was a great friend to everyone and well known and loved in our hiking community. He was part of my small tribe of backpackers that are family. He is gone from this world, but always with us on every trail, kicking up trail dust.

During the week of our tribute hike, the shuttle company called me. They could not get to the trailhead of the West Rim Trail, they could get us to the Wildcat Trail, which would add an additional 5 miles to a strenuous 8 mile day. I am not ready to tackle 13 miles yet. So we switched it out, stuck close by and went up to Hidden Forest Hidden Cabin. Currently, the U.S. Air Force has plans to expand its training and practice bombing operations over the Refuge. If the Air Force expansion happens, access to the Hidden Forest Cabin and miles of backcountry roads could be eliminated. The take over could happen in 2020. So this might be the last chance I had to get back up there.

Military Expansion Plan Link

I had already taken Friday off, so that I could pick up my permit for the West Rim trek, so I decided that the Adventure Beast and I would head out Friday morning and tackle the trail solo. This way we could take our time, I not worry about slowing anyone down. I was feeling braver after the solo river trip. But this trail I knew was a beast of a trail. It gains over 2,000 feet in elevation in 5 miles, but the entire trail is a gravel wash. There is no level, only up. No switchbacks, only up. No solid footing, only gravel and rocks “ankle breakers”. It had been 5 years since I had last set dusty foot on this trail. It was over due. An 18 mile rocky bumpy dirt road gets you to the trailhead, there is no cell service, only solitude.

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The Adventure Beast and I landed at the trailhead at 11:00 AM, only an hour and a half behind schedule. We unloaded, checked in on the SPOT and took the proverbial photo at the trailhead sign. And we were off kicking up trail dust.

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We weren’t even ten minutes into the hike, when a familiar sound broke the silence. RATTLER! I had just started to get my rhythm, I was just starting to get into my head, thoughts of what the night might be, what was to come. I screamed for Adventure Beast, she understood the terror in my voice and came directly to me, looking for what she needed to protect me from. I finally caught sight of it, coiled on the rocks to the left of us. Perfectly blended into the rocky terrain. We made a wide berth, skirting around Mr. Rattlesnake, go back to sunning yourself, we have no business with you. They are just now starting to come out in this area, so he was sluggish and just warned us that we we too close. But the rest of the trek was to prove to be nerve wracking. I was on constant watch. Eyes darting here and there across the trail. Adventure Beast cranky with me, because she was’t allowed her usual 10 foot lead way. I made her walk behind me or next to me. I could not risk loosing another dog within a year of each other. On Saturday, it would be the 1 yr mark of losing my Shasta. Another reason I wanted to get out and get some solitude. We climbed and climbed, up and up. The sun was warm, but not stifling. But backpacking a tough climb like this, was proving to be exhausting on the keto lifestyle that we had started at my doctor’s urging, to get my diabetes in control. I had a hard time coming out of the canyon on my solo trek, so I had joined some keto backpacking groups. This was common and electrolyte replacements were key. I had packed plenty and started off with two Gatorade Zero’s partially frozen. I had a set goal in mind for a lunch break. Just a about three miles in, there are some scattered campsites  for those who don’t want to go all the way to the cabin. Perfect spot to unload and grab lunch. But the gravel up hill climb, with keto exhaustion proved to be too much. I would take 10 steps and rest, ten steps and rest. I was running on empty and replenishing the electrolytes was just not cutting it any more. It was 1:30 in the afternoon, I needed some food. So I found a rock in the shade that I thought I could get up off of when I was done with my break. At this time I choked down some pecans covered in cacao butter, rested and drank. Adventure Beast laid down in the shade and waited for me patiently. While I actually contemplated turning around and saying screw this or only going to the scattered campsites for the night and then hitting it back up in the morning. But once I got some food in me and a bit of rest, I thought, NO! I am going to make it to that damn cabin!

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Onward!! Ok Beast! Lets GO! I’m not going to lie, it was slow slow slow moving. Take some steps and stop, take some steps and stop. I was so mad. I’ve done this trek a couple of other times, and I knew it wasn’t easy, but this, this keto exhaustion was ridiculous! I was tapped out, but still kept moving. Adventure Beast had figured out the pattern, left right left repeat, stop in the shade, breathe, left right left, repeat, stop in the shade. We had gotten high enough up in elevation, that I was no longer worried about rattlers. The breeze came down the canyon, giving me a bit of chill whenever we would stop. So Adventure Beast was back out in the lead. She would stop in the shady spots and wait for me. She would let me breathe for a minute and push me onward, looking back over her shoulder. We finally passed the scattered campsites and I knew there was about two more miles to go. I knew once we got up into the Ponderosa Pines and White Fir trees, there would be a mile left. Once I got up into that forest, somehow, I started to pick up my pace. I knew it was close. Either that or lunch and electrolytes were starting to kick in. Maybe anticipation? Regardless, my step was getting quicker. We had entered the Hidden Forest…

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We were almost to the cabin! Almost done. When we went around the first tree blocking the path, I knew it was less then a mile, when we went around the second one, I knew we were down to 1/4 of a mile. I was still needing to stop, just not as frequently. We arrived to the cabin at 4:15 PM, a little over 5 hours, with a half and hour break. Damn. Well that’s about how long it took me last time too. I was really kicking myself for not leaving on time. But there was still daylight left and all day Saturday and Sunday morning to enjoy. I set up our tent. There were two other guys at the cabin, they had a log smoldering in one of the pits. They also had a large Rhodesian Ridgeback that had Adventure Beast’s full attention. They were leaving in the morning. I wouldn’t be totally solo again, but the guys were pretty mellow. I set our home for the weekend up and went to one of the picnic tables. I put my head down on the table, totally spent. I made us dinner and choked down some carne asada that I had frozen and brought up as a reward. I wasn’t hungry, but I had to eat and this wouldn’t last until tomorrow, it was already thawed out. The guys sat down with their mountain house crap in a bag and looked longingly at my carne asada low carb burrito. I offered, but they refused. It got chilly, but these guys couldn’t get that damn log to burn if their lives depended on it. I went to the tent to get my woolies on and prep for bed. It was only 6:00 PM and the sun was still up. I brought (well Adventure Beast brought) four Trulys up to have two tonight and two tomorrow. But I wasn’t feeling that ambitious and there was no warmth coming out of the smoldering log. The guys went off to find some more wood and hike up to the spring. Adventure Beast and myself enjoyed a bit of alone time. Relaxing next to the fire pit, poking small sticks and tinder under the log trying to get it to go. I really wanted to pull it off and restart a new fire next to the log, but I wasn’t that ambitious. I opened a Truly and propped my feet up, finally feeling “human” again.

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The guys came back and we chatted for awhile, one of them knew Kenny, so we talked about him for a little bit. We chatted about places we had been, some of the places similar. We talked about dogs and home life. But it seemed like forced conversation. They tried to stoke the fire, with no luck. I wanted to suggest making a new fire next to it, but they had took the effort to saw that log, they were determined to burn it. At 7:45 PM, I turned in. I had a book to read, I was exhausted and I felt like I was a damper on their conversation. Although they were nice enough, they weren’t rude, it was just the feeling I got. Here is this crazy ass old lady hauling her ass up the mountain to camp solo with her dog. Who does that? Me, thats who! I laid in my tent, wishing I had brought Adventure Beast her coat. It wasn’t supposed to be that cold, but the chill had settled in on our little camp spot on the mountain. I read my book until 8:30 PM, Beast was snoring and dreaming, twitching her paws and whimpering. I turned off the light and snuggled in next to her. We had made it. Exhausted we had trekked on and triumphed in our quest. Snuggled up next to Beast, I could hear the guys conversing and the smell of smoke drifted down to the tent, as I drifted off to sleep.

I slept sound all night long.

I woke in the early dawn hours, 6:00 AM. No surprise there, I did fall asleep at 8:30 PM. The guys were still tucked away in their tents as I made the mad dash across camp to find a place to relive myself, where I wouldn’t be seen. I didn’t want Beast disturbing them, so I made sure she stayed with me. I gathered up some kindling. I walked around the out skirts of the camp and found handfuls of small wood and a few larger pieces, just enough to take the chill off. I found a piece of paper to use to move the still smoldering log to the side. I built up a nice pile of tinder and kindling, with a few larger pieces on top and sparked it up. I thought, as I was quietly starting a fire while everyone else slept, so this is what Magic Man feels like when we are out. He and Major would be coming up later in the morning today. It was perfect for taking off the morning chill. And I was determined to get that log burnt and not smoldering. The guys slowly woke up and seemed impressed that I already had a nice fire going. I went to grab my food bag to start coffee and breakfast and one of them decided the fire was big enough to put the damn log back on what I had going. *SIGH* I’ll fix it later. I made coffee and breakfast. Bullet Proof instant coffee. Which required my newly purchased coffee frother. Yes. A battery powered coffee frother. I also brought some actual eggs, no bacon this time, but eggs. And again, the guys looked at me strangely as I made my eggs and frothed my coffee.

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I headed out energized after last nights great sleep and freshly frothed bullet proof coffee, to collect firewood. I took a blanket and some rope from the cabin and walked back down the trail. I gathered wood and put it in the blanket, when I had enough for the first load, I wrapped the rope around it and tossed it over my shoulder, carrying it back up the hill to the cabin. The guys seemed impressed at the old crazy ass lady solo backpacking now. They were starting to pack up. I made one last trip down for wood and by the time I was done with that, the guys were packed and ready to go. Beast nuzzled her new buddy good bye. I thanked them for the company and bid them a careful hike. Say hello to Magic Man and Major when you pass them, they should already be at least a mile in. With them gone, I moved my new Kickback Hammock Chair from Arrowhead Equipment. Kickback Hammock Chair link up to the main camp area. My straps were too short to go around the large trees, but that soft rope would come in handy to lengthen my straps. I spent the morning hanging out in my new chair, relaxing with my book. Listening to the birds chirping and the humming birds zip in and out of the spring, taking turns bathing in the dish that captures the water there. I read, while Beast slept next to the hammock chair.

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The chair is a perfect addition to my pack. It’s lighter weight and packs down smaller then my chair. As long as I’m going someplace with trees, this will come with me. I don’t bring my chair on section hikes, but I’ll toss this in and set it up if there are trees available. I was just starting to drift off into a napping state, when Beast tossed up hackles. I sat up and looked towards the trail. Magic Man and Major and another hiker Peg, who had asked me the week before, if I had anything planned, especially going here, so I reached out to her to let her know when we were going. It was hugs and greetings and how was it last nights. Major got to putting up her tent and settling in right away. Magic Man got out his chair, looked at the still smoldering fire and gave me a funny look. I made sure to let him know that was not my doing. We chatted and had some lunch when some day hikers came up the trail. I grabbed Beast, not knowing if they had any other dogs, they didn’t so I let her go, while she greeted everyone. We chatted with them for a bit, one I had talked to behind the scenes several times, but had never actually met in person. So it was nice to finally meet her face to face. They showed some pictures of some interesting artwork in the area. I didn’t even know about it, so Major and I walked up the hill to check things out.

 

We explored the area a little bit and Major checked out the cabin. She had never been up there, so we poked around. The day hikers were leaving, so we waved good bye and took up residence next to my Kickback Hammock Chair. The wind had brought on a chill, so we bundled up, not want to start a fire in the wind to take off the chill. We laughed and talked about old times, great trips, new trips, we got to know Peg more as well. We all had stories. Major was getting hungry and I had brought up some dice to play Yahtzee, after seeing some thru hikers playing it  on the bear canister lid at Tuloume Meadows during last years girl’s JMT trek. So we invited Peg to play, but she opted to go on a walk about. We gathered at the picnic table and played a full game of triple Yahtzee.

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I was finally hungry and Magic Man was over the smoldering log, the wind had died down and it was time for dinner and campfire conversations. This didn’t last long, as Major and Magic Man were used to going to bed early and rising early. It didn’t help that I had went to bed early the night before. They were tired from their trek up the hill, I understood. Peg was not tired, so I stayed up with her until Beast started to shiver. It was time to get her into a cozy tent and snuggle up and read some more. Ugh, it was only 7:00 PM!

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We dosed the fire and spread out the ashes before saying good night. Changing into the woolies, it felt a bit warmer tonight then last night. But I bundled up anyway. Beast curled up next to me, I had put my long sleeved shirt on her to keep her warmer. I read until 8:00 PM. I turned out the light and snuggled in. I felt warm and toasty. Almost too warm. When I woke in the middle of the night to Beast shivering and not stopping, I took off my coat and bundled her up in it. She finally stopped shivering and I drifted back to sleep.

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Beast was still bundled up in the morning, toasty warm snuggle bug. I laid there for a bit listening to the sounds of camp waking. A fire was crackling, I could smell coffee brewing and breakfast being cooked. I lay there just enjoying the moment. I could hear laughter and conversations. Camaraderie. Finally Beast sat up and stretched and yawned, Momma its time to get up. I made the dash to the trees, but Beast didn’t follow. There was no time to wait for her. From the perch on my log, I could see her panicking. Where’s Momma? I could hear her whimper. I gave her a “come here” recall whistle and she immediately honed in on me and bee lined to where I was. She’s so smart and attentive. She really is the perfect adventure partner in crime.

By now I am starving! I have a new Packit Gourmet meal to try out. Diner Deluxe Eggs with Sausage. Packit Gourmet Diner Deluxe link I was going to spruce it up a little with some cheese. I wanted to carry as little of that cheese back down the trail as possible. Everyone else had already had breakfast and coffee and where relaxing around the fire. Chuckling at me as a frothed my coffee. Hey I am a coffee snob, I’ll do what it takes, and the coffee frother was less then 3 oz. By the time I finally make breakfast and take up residence campfire side, Magic Man is already packing up. You’re going to wait for me right? Yes of course. Ok! While Peg tried to get me to stay later. But I was ready for a shower and to be home. But we still chatted next to the fire while I ate breakfast and Beast begged for more breakfast,

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I had brought along Kenny’s picture that we were all going to carry with us on our tribute hike. After breakfast I wanted to put the photo up in the cabin. So I got everything packed and ready to go and Magic Man, Major and myself took the photo that we had from Kenny’s last trip with us. We said our peace and quietly went back down to the fire.

 

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I needed to put the blanket and rope back in the cabin, so I thought, if we were never able to come up here again, I wanted a picture with the Adventure Beast in front of the cabin.

 

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It was time to take off the fitkicks, wool jacket and stocking hat and get the Altra Lone Peaks and Headsweats hat on. Sling the pack and head down the hill. Going down, we would be maybe two hours. We hit trail dust at 8:00 AM, we were done by 10:00 AM. No snakes to be seen.

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Screen shot of the trek from the spot tracker…

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Another great trek down in the books. I hope the military take over does not happen and we can still visit this peaceful place, tucked away in the solitude of the mountain range near Las Vegas.

Until the next trek….

The Journey IS the Destination…